Turbo Kjet (240 series) to LH 2.2 How to.
#1
01-02-2010, 10:17 AM
Turbo Kjet (240 series) to LH 2.2 How to.
I didn't know where to put this but its the details for the swap.
I went through a lot of articles in order to get enough info to do this, I would have loved to have a one stop shop for everything I need to know and I still had a lot of questions. I'll try to write this out as best and detailed as I can, but. I will say the wiring diagrams will probably differ from your car, they were definitely different in my car.
Who
This is a write up on how to take your 1983-1985 (or other kjet vehicles possibly?) Volvo 240 turbo vehicle and turn it from a Kjet car to a Lh 2.2 car while still maintaining the stock ignitiong system.
What
The Shopping List.
541 ECU
007 AMM
Engine Harness 85 to 88 non 240. You can also use a 740 harness up until 89 I think, I'm not sure I just used an 87 240 harness out of simplicity and availability. I also would like to note at this time I seperated the igniton side from the fuel side because I have plans later on in life to update to an EZK system.
Injectors. I used orange tops from a turbo 850 to avoid any extra complications. I understand that there is a host of other injectors you can use. Brown top, green top, other options. Again, this was an availabilty simplicity decision.
B230 intake, including all the brackets and I took all the fastners with me.
Injector rail
Throttle Cable
Kick Down Cable (I have an automatic)
Throttle body
2 wire O2 sensor
Throttle position sensor switch
Water sensor's from LH 2.2 car (I don't know if this is neccesary but i got them anyways)
Something to solve the intercooler to throttle body issue. You'll see. I started off thinking I was going to use the 740 intake stuff only to find out that the power steering pump is in the way. Brings me to the idea of swapping to the later 740 setup. With the altenator and AC on the driver side and the power steering being a small unit on the bottow passenger side. Future debating must ensue on this topic.
Butt connectors
Intake gasket
Throttle body gasket (I made my own, cus i'm cheap)
Wiring Diagrams, Learn to love them. The ones you will need fo sho are; http://www.k-jet.org/files/greenbook...et_v2_b23f.pdf
and
http://www.k-jet.org/files/greenbook...985_PRELIM.pdf
Felt tip pen
Masking tape
Electrical tape
Why
I did this because I was having a lot of little issues with the kjet system that was on my car. I believe that part of the reason was due to wires that had in fact seen better days. The other reason I was to believe involved the fact that the car had sat for some time. I did replace a lot of things but the car would always run just inconsistently. Sometimes I would get in the car and it would run amazingly, other times It would bog and sputter and run very rich. So after sitting at the junk yard pulling interior parts and what not. I looked over a LH car and decided it looks simple, it looks clean, and it looks like something I can do. Might I note at this point that while I am mechanically compitent, I have never in my life done something like this.
When
Or maybe how long is the proper way to say this. It took me 2 weeks worth of weekends working 4 hours each day.
Where
I did it in my garage, but you could do it in a parking lot if you wanted, or at like a friends house, bring beer.
How
Step 1:
Look at the diagrams for wiring, spend days getting to know them. It will make things a lot less dificult when the time comes to do the swap.
Step 2:
Gather all your parts. I can't stress to you how important it is to look over the diagrams again at this point.
Step 3:
Profit! Or well actually pull your car in the garage or whatever and unplug the battery. Start the tear down. Every part you have gathered for the swap needs to come off. Intake, fuel distributor, lines, well lets keep this short by saying any hardware except the wiring for the kjet/lambda sond system, needs to come out.
Step 4:
Clean, start looking for problems with your current wiring. Again as I said above I started to seperate my ignition, fuel, charging, and starting, wires into different looms at this point. I figured later on this will all make my life easier.
Step 5:
Here's where you want to walk away from your current car and start working on the wiring harness you picked up. I took mine all apart to look for broken wires or insulation that had left the building. MIght as well do this, no point in putting an old beat up harness in to replace the old crappy degraded harness that will be coming out. Figure out which wire goes to which pin, or if it comes out somewhere else. You need to figure this whole thing out. Later on in the install if you know this harness really well, It will make life easier. Also label where everything goes according to the diagrams. I used masking take and felt tip pen. At this point with everything all mapped out and figured out, wrap the loom back up. You can do it however you want. I just wrapped it with some magical electrical tape I got from a train engineer. The stuff is crazy thick and he said he's seen it last 20 years with no issues.
Step 6:
Well, here's where you and I might take different paths. As I've mentioned in here i seperated all my different looms. I then also labeled where every wire and thing went because I was taking it apart with the thought that, if i have to put this back together because I failed then I want it to be easy. I cut the casings on the looms, figured out wires. All that jazz. then i pulled back the loom that had anything to do with the fuel side of the car, leaving everthing else. Exact wire colors or whatever it's all a blur at this point. Also I found out, from car to car it seems like the wiring is diferent colors. This is where the labeling helps out in the end.
Step 7:
Starting backing out the wires and removing the last of the Kjet parts. Like frequency valve and the fuel pressure regulation stuff, cold start things. You'll slowly start to figure out the scope of this project at this point.
With everything pulled back at this piont start to excise wires dealing with the CIS and Lambda sond System. Also there is a light grey relay that is on the driver fender inside with a bunch of other relays (it's the system relay for the CIS. Cut the red wire that goes to it, and the other wires, very long away from the relay. I supose you can leave this under the hood but this relay will take place of the system relay for the LH system, along with the fuel relay that is currently under the dash stuffed inside.
Step 8:
Lambda Sond computer and the CIS computer located on the passenger footwell's outerwall. To get to it you'll want to remove the carpet insulation thing that is under the dash. ANd then the plastic covering it. At this Point I realized to trace all the wires to their starting positions I need to remove the all the guages and their bezels as well as the center unit where the radio is and the glove box. I then started to figure out where all the wires came from under the dash for the CIS and Lambda. I also located the fuel relay at this point. I then looked at the wiring diagram here (http://www.k-jet.org/files/greenbook...985_PRELIM.pdf) to see what wires did what and also what wires I'll have to keep to go where.
Step 9:
Remove the wires you won't need and remove the lambda sond control unit and the CIS control unit. Wire the system relay back in under the dash and run the wires over for that and the fuel relay.
Here is how the wiring went for me
System Relay
pin 30 gets power from the fuel relay's pin number 30
pin 85 on the system relay is a ground that needs to go to Pin 21 on the LH ECU
Pin 87 on the system relay is a power wire that goes to pin 9 on the ecu and powers the AMM.
Fuel Relay
pin 30 on the fuel relay gets power from the fuse box and supplies power to the system relay
PIn 85 on the fuel relay goes to pin 17 on the LH ECU
Pin 86 on the fuel relay goes to the 18 On the LH ECU, it also recieves switched power from the fuse box.
Pin 87 on the fuel relay supplies power to the fuel pumps, injectors, and IAC. I cut this wire and spliced in an extra wire to run over to the injector wire on the LH wiring harness. (I'm not using the IAC, so might have to figure that one out for yourself.
Last thing you'll need for the ECU is a signal from the coil. I actually had a white wire that ran all the way to the coil in my harness, But you can get that signal from inside the dash from pin 12 off the old CIS ecu. If that makes sense.
Step 10:
Back under the hood start running your wires to their spots. Install the new throttle cable and kick down cable. Install your b230 intake, complete with injectors and fuel rail, throttle body and what not attached. Plug in your wires. As for the AMM I ran my wired over to the passenger side where the CIS air box is and reused the air box for now. I plan in the future to build a new intercooler piping kit and get a cone filter and all that. For the tube that goes from the intercooler to the throttle body I picked up a 2.25 inch by 18 inches long exhaust pipe for temporary hook up. I don't know how long it would last, I'm not going to find out. I'm making the plumbing and installing the intake part as general as possible. There are some avenues you can take here that will differ from my choices.
Step 11:
The fuel lines I have on the car are actually fairly new so I just cut them down and fitted them on to the b230 fuel rail. Then put clamps on them. It's all fuel injection hose so I think it will be fine.
Step 12:
Mount the LH ECU to the footwell wall where your other units were and then plug in the harness to it. At this point I put the positive battery cable on and started the car. Now i'm not going to lie. This took some trials. I had to go back and redo my wiring a little bit cus I was wrong the first couple times. But I went back and made it correct just like above and it fired right up. Ohh and since i'm not using an IAC i needed to adjust the throttle open to get it to idle.
Oh, I forgot to say to put your 3 wire 02 sensor where your 1 wire one was and plug it in. But that should be kinda obvious.
The results:
The car starts much quicker and seems to work much better. It also feels stronger. As for fuel consumption and all that I don't know. I'm still kinda working on the car for other things. But I can tell this updated fuel system will make me happy. And again, I don't hate K-jet. I was just tired of it, and I wanted something a little less finicky.
I went through a lot of articles in order to get enough info to do this, I would have loved to have a one stop shop for everything I need to know and I still had a lot of questions. I'll try to write this out as best and detailed as I can, but. I will say the wiring diagrams will probably differ from your car, they were definitely different in my car.
Who
This is a write up on how to take your 1983-1985 (or other kjet vehicles possibly?) Volvo 240 turbo vehicle and turn it from a Kjet car to a Lh 2.2 car while still maintaining the stock ignitiong system.
What
The Shopping List.
541 ECU
007 AMM
Engine Harness 85 to 88 non 240. You can also use a 740 harness up until 89 I think, I'm not sure I just used an 87 240 harness out of simplicity and availability. I also would like to note at this time I seperated the igniton side from the fuel side because I have plans later on in life to update to an EZK system.
Injectors. I used orange tops from a turbo 850 to avoid any extra complications. I understand that there is a host of other injectors you can use. Brown top, green top, other options. Again, this was an availabilty simplicity decision.
B230 intake, including all the brackets and I took all the fastners with me.
Injector rail
Throttle Cable
Kick Down Cable (I have an automatic)
Throttle body
2 wire O2 sensor
Throttle position sensor switch
Water sensor's from LH 2.2 car (I don't know if this is neccesary but i got them anyways)
Something to solve the intercooler to throttle body issue. You'll see. I started off thinking I was going to use the 740 intake stuff only to find out that the power steering pump is in the way. Brings me to the idea of swapping to the later 740 setup. With the altenator and AC on the driver side and the power steering being a small unit on the bottow passenger side. Future debating must ensue on this topic.
Butt connectors
Intake gasket
Throttle body gasket (I made my own, cus i'm cheap)
Wiring Diagrams, Learn to love them. The ones you will need fo sho are; http://www.k-jet.org/files/greenbook...et_v2_b23f.pdf
and
http://www.k-jet.org/files/greenbook...985_PRELIM.pdf
Felt tip pen
Masking tape
Electrical tape
Why
I did this because I was having a lot of little issues with the kjet system that was on my car. I believe that part of the reason was due to wires that had in fact seen better days. The other reason I was to believe involved the fact that the car had sat for some time. I did replace a lot of things but the car would always run just inconsistently. Sometimes I would get in the car and it would run amazingly, other times It would bog and sputter and run very rich. So after sitting at the junk yard pulling interior parts and what not. I looked over a LH car and decided it looks simple, it looks clean, and it looks like something I can do. Might I note at this point that while I am mechanically compitent, I have never in my life done something like this.
When
Or maybe how long is the proper way to say this. It took me 2 weeks worth of weekends working 4 hours each day.
Where
I did it in my garage, but you could do it in a parking lot if you wanted, or at like a friends house, bring beer.
How
Step 1:
Look at the diagrams for wiring, spend days getting to know them. It will make things a lot less dificult when the time comes to do the swap.
Step 2:
Gather all your parts. I can't stress to you how important it is to look over the diagrams again at this point.
Step 3:
Profit! Or well actually pull your car in the garage or whatever and unplug the battery. Start the tear down. Every part you have gathered for the swap needs to come off. Intake, fuel distributor, lines, well lets keep this short by saying any hardware except the wiring for the kjet/lambda sond system, needs to come out.
Step 4:
Clean, start looking for problems with your current wiring. Again as I said above I started to seperate my ignition, fuel, charging, and starting, wires into different looms at this point. I figured later on this will all make my life easier.
Step 5:
Here's where you want to walk away from your current car and start working on the wiring harness you picked up. I took mine all apart to look for broken wires or insulation that had left the building. MIght as well do this, no point in putting an old beat up harness in to replace the old crappy degraded harness that will be coming out. Figure out which wire goes to which pin, or if it comes out somewhere else. You need to figure this whole thing out. Later on in the install if you know this harness really well, It will make life easier. Also label where everything goes according to the diagrams. I used masking take and felt tip pen. At this point with everything all mapped out and figured out, wrap the loom back up. You can do it however you want. I just wrapped it with some magical electrical tape I got from a train engineer. The stuff is crazy thick and he said he's seen it last 20 years with no issues.
Step 6:
Well, here's where you and I might take different paths. As I've mentioned in here i seperated all my different looms. I then also labeled where every wire and thing went because I was taking it apart with the thought that, if i have to put this back together because I failed then I want it to be easy. I cut the casings on the looms, figured out wires. All that jazz. then i pulled back the loom that had anything to do with the fuel side of the car, leaving everthing else. Exact wire colors or whatever it's all a blur at this point. Also I found out, from car to car it seems like the wiring is diferent colors. This is where the labeling helps out in the end.
Step 7:
Starting backing out the wires and removing the last of the Kjet parts. Like frequency valve and the fuel pressure regulation stuff, cold start things. You'll slowly start to figure out the scope of this project at this point.
With everything pulled back at this piont start to excise wires dealing with the CIS and Lambda sond System. Also there is a light grey relay that is on the driver fender inside with a bunch of other relays (it's the system relay for the CIS. Cut the red wire that goes to it, and the other wires, very long away from the relay. I supose you can leave this under the hood but this relay will take place of the system relay for the LH system, along with the fuel relay that is currently under the dash stuffed inside.
Step 8:
Lambda Sond computer and the CIS computer located on the passenger footwell's outerwall. To get to it you'll want to remove the carpet insulation thing that is under the dash. ANd then the plastic covering it. At this Point I realized to trace all the wires to their starting positions I need to remove the all the guages and their bezels as well as the center unit where the radio is and the glove box. I then started to figure out where all the wires came from under the dash for the CIS and Lambda. I also located the fuel relay at this point. I then looked at the wiring diagram here (http://www.k-jet.org/files/greenbook...985_PRELIM.pdf) to see what wires did what and also what wires I'll have to keep to go where.
Step 9:
Remove the wires you won't need and remove the lambda sond control unit and the CIS control unit. Wire the system relay back in under the dash and run the wires over for that and the fuel relay.
Here is how the wiring went for me
System Relay
pin 30 gets power from the fuel relay's pin number 30
pin 85 on the system relay is a ground that needs to go to Pin 21 on the LH ECU
Pin 87 on the system relay is a power wire that goes to pin 9 on the ecu and powers the AMM.
Fuel Relay
pin 30 on the fuel relay gets power from the fuse box and supplies power to the system relay
PIn 85 on the fuel relay goes to pin 17 on the LH ECU
Pin 86 on the fuel relay goes to the 18 On the LH ECU, it also recieves switched power from the fuse box.
Pin 87 on the fuel relay supplies power to the fuel pumps, injectors, and IAC. I cut this wire and spliced in an extra wire to run over to the injector wire on the LH wiring harness. (I'm not using the IAC, so might have to figure that one out for yourself.
Last thing you'll need for the ECU is a signal from the coil. I actually had a white wire that ran all the way to the coil in my harness, But you can get that signal from inside the dash from pin 12 off the old CIS ecu. If that makes sense.
Step 10:
Back under the hood start running your wires to their spots. Install the new throttle cable and kick down cable. Install your b230 intake, complete with injectors and fuel rail, throttle body and what not attached. Plug in your wires. As for the AMM I ran my wired over to the passenger side where the CIS air box is and reused the air box for now. I plan in the future to build a new intercooler piping kit and get a cone filter and all that. For the tube that goes from the intercooler to the throttle body I picked up a 2.25 inch by 18 inches long exhaust pipe for temporary hook up. I don't know how long it would last, I'm not going to find out. I'm making the plumbing and installing the intake part as general as possible. There are some avenues you can take here that will differ from my choices.
Step 11:
The fuel lines I have on the car are actually fairly new so I just cut them down and fitted them on to the b230 fuel rail. Then put clamps on them. It's all fuel injection hose so I think it will be fine.
Step 12:
Mount the LH ECU to the footwell wall where your other units were and then plug in the harness to it. At this point I put the positive battery cable on and started the car. Now i'm not going to lie. This took some trials. I had to go back and redo my wiring a little bit cus I was wrong the first couple times. But I went back and made it correct just like above and it fired right up. Ohh and since i'm not using an IAC i needed to adjust the throttle open to get it to idle.
Oh, I forgot to say to put your 3 wire 02 sensor where your 1 wire one was and plug it in. But that should be kinda obvious.
The results:
The car starts much quicker and seems to work much better. It also feels stronger. As for fuel consumption and all that I don't know. I'm still kinda working on the car for other things. But I can tell this updated fuel system will make me happy. And again, I don't hate K-jet. I was just tired of it, and I wanted something a little less finicky.
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01-02-2010, 01:16 PM
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